Day 4: Rampur to Sarahan-Chitkul-Karchham

After a hearty breakfast at our heritage hotel, we set off for Sarahan.

Our first stop was the Bhimakali Temple, an 800-year-old shrine regarded as one of the 51 sacred Shakti Peethas. Dedicated to Goddess Durga, known locally as Bhimakali, this temple is a popular pilgrimage site. The current Bhimakali Temple, built in 1927, stands beside an older structure that has a fascinating story. During the 1905 earthquake, the old temple tilted but was miraculously straightened by a subsequent tremor. Legend has it that the temple has deep foundations and a disused tunnel connecting it to the nearby village of Ranwin, used by priests as a secret passage. This reminded me of the Kali temple in my hometown, Kodungallur Bhadrakali Temple.

Over the past two days, we’ve been driving alongside the Sutlej River. Today, we were thrilled to see snow-capped peaks in the distance.

En route to Chitkul, we stopped at the Taranda Maa Temple in Nigulsari to pray for safety on these treacherous roads. The locals believe Taranda Devi protects travelers here.

We passed the Karcham Wangtoo Hydroelectric Plant and the Dam on the Sutlej River, which was swollen with water from the mountains. Along the way, we saw numerous waterfalls and evidence of landslides from the last rainy season. We drove through many small villages with old, charming shops housed in historical buildings. The jacarandas and silver oaks in full bloom added to the scenic beauty.

After passing through a rock tunnel and witnessing breathtaking mountain vistas, we arrived in Chitkul, the last village on the Indian side of the border. On the way we saw the apple orchards full of blooms.

It was Sunday, so the last post office of India was closed, much to the kids’ disappointment as they had hoped to send postcards. The village was almost empty, likely due to the late hour, with tourists gone and villagers indoors. We took some time to click pictures and admire the snow-capped peaks before heading to Karchham for the night.

The kids wanted to pick some pine cones(and that’s what we also thought) so we stopped and picked a few. One of them gave me a gum kind resin and upon smelling, it felt so familiar aroma. Our driver told us what we have got is Deodar cones and not pine😄 Little N has planned to sell them back in Bangalore. So if any of you need one, please contact him😝

Karchham

Tonight, we’re staying in Swiss tents. I’m a bit worried about coping with the cold since I’m quite susceptible to it. I bundled up in thermals and multiple layers to stave off the shivering.

We sat near the bonfire for a while before our dinner.Despite the cold (9°C felt like 1°C to me!), we managed to have dinner and then retreated into thick blankets.

A.